Pattern: Tough Stuff Socks


I recently bought The Sock Knitter’s Handbook by Charlene Schurch and Beth Parrott. It’s probably one of the most useful knitting books I’ve ever bought, honestly. It’s full of all kinds of advice and techniques for knitting socks from the cuff and from the toe.
Now that I’m familiar with the techniques involved in sock knitting, I thought it’d be neat to write my own pattern. Specifically, I wanted to write a pattern for men’s socks since I was having such a hard time finding a pattern that was the right style and size for T.

Honestly, I was just going to keep this pattern for personal use, but then I thought that someone else might be able to use it. It’s written for worsted weight yarn so I think it’s a good pattern for people who have knitted training socks before and want to try a full sized pair of socks. It works up quickly, and the stitch pattern is very simple.

I’m thinking about knitting up a pair of socks for myself so I may post a women’s version later. (These socks are made for a men’s US size 10 foot so it would fit a woman’s foot of similar size.)



1 skein of worsted weight yarn (I used Lion Brand Heartland in Glacier Bay)
Size 4 needles
Stitch markers
Tapestry needle


  • CO – cast on
  • st – stitch
  • k – knit
  • p – purl
  • yo – yarn over
  • sl – slip

Stitch patterns:

Bamboo stitch
Row 1: yo, k2, sl yo over both st and off needle, continue until end
Row 2: k all st

Eye of Partridge stitch with garter stitch edging

(Starting on wrong side)

Row 1: k3, p across rest of st
Row 2: p3, *sl 1, k1* repeat until last 3 st, k3
Row 3: k3, p across
Row 4: p3, *k1, sl 1* repeat until last 3, k3


CO 48 st with the Super Stretchy Cast-on
Join to knit in the round and place marker.


Round 1 – 10: k2, p2 all the way around
Round 11: k all st (48 st)


Round 12 – 31: Work leg following bamboo stitch pattern for 10 repeats/20 rows, ending on row 2 of pattern (48 st)


Determine which side the top of your sock will be. The heel flap is worked back and forth on the 24 st of the side you choose.

(NOTE: The Eye of Partridge pattern starts on the wrong side of the fabric so make sure the side you are starting your heel flap on is a purl row. )

Work the Eye of Partridge stitch for 6 repeats/24 rows, ending on row 4 of pattern (48 st)


Row 1: Sl 1, p12, p2tog, p1. Turn.
Row 2: Sl 1, k3, ssk, k1. Turn
Row 3: Sl1, p to 1 st before gap, p2tog, p1. Turn.
Row 4: Sl1, k to 1 st before gap, k2tog, k1. Turn.

Repeat rows 3 + 4 until all st are worked. (14 st on needle)



Pick up and knit 12 st down the side of the heel flap. Pick up and knit 2 additional st between heel flap and instep according to the above image. (Insert the needle under the red leg in the direction of the yellow arrows.)

Work across instep in pattern.

Pick up and knit 2 st between instep and heel flap as you did on opposite side. Pick up and knit 12 st up the side of the heel flap.

K across heel until 2 st before instep, ssk.

K in pattern across instep.

K2tog, k to middle of heel stitches. Place marker for new start of round.


Round 1:
k to 3 st before instep, k2tog, k1
k across instep in pattern
k1, ssk, k to end

Round 2:
k all st in pattern
k to end

Repeat until 48 st remain

Knit remaining heels stitches until you reach instep stitches. Remove marker from middle of heel and replace at the beginning of the instep stitches.


K in stockinette on sole of sock and in pattern on instep until desired length, ending on first row of instep pattern repeat.


Round 1: *k1, ssk, k across until 3 st remain, k2tog, k1* repeat
Round 2: K across

Repeat until 24 st remain on needles

Graft st using kitchener stitch.

Voila! One beautiful finished sock! Time to make another~


Pattern: Camera Lens Cozy


In my last post, I talked about my trip to the Space and Rocket Center. While I was preparing for the trip, I hit a snag. I wanted to bring both of my camera lenses, but I was determined to only carry my little backpack with me, which doesn’t have a pocket or safe place to stash my extra lens. That’s when I decided to use some of my super bulky yarn to make a soft, cushy cozy for my lenses. It made me feel much more comfortable with storing them in my backpack knowing that nothing would knock the lens cap off or scratch them. And the thick cozy would keep them from being jostled too much.

This pattern is very simple and I came up with it on the fly, but I thought that it would be something useful for others like me who are overprotective of their cam-baby.
Also, I use a Canon T3i with the standard 18-55mm lens and a 75-300mm zoom lens so that’s what this pattern is written for. It can be easily adjusted for any lens width by adding extra increase rounds.

It’s my first time writing a crochet pattern so I’m hoping that I was clear enough with the directions without being overly wordy.
If you find any errors, please let me know!




Size K/6.5 mm crochet hook
Loops and Threads Charisma yarn (I used 28g on the small cozy, 41g on the large one.)
The lens that will be wearing your finished cozy
Stitch marker
Button of your choice
A sewing needle
Tapestry needle for those pesky ends


I didn’t take any measurements for my lenses. I had them with me while I crocheted so I was able to slip them in to check the length.
You may find that your lenses are longer/shorter than mine. Just crochet until the cozy meets the edge of your lens cover and you’ll be good.


  • ch – chain
  • sc – single crochet
  • hdc – half double crochet
  • dc – double crochet
  • tc – triple crochet
  • sl st – slip stitch


NOTE: All chains in this pattern do not count as a hdc. Place a stitch marker into the first hdc of the round to keep track, if that helps you. 🙂

Start with magic loop or your preferred method of crocheting in the round.

Round 1: Work 6 hdc into the loop, sl st into first hdc (6)

Round 2: ch1, work 2 hdc in each stitch, sl st into the top st of the first hdc (12)

Round 3: ch1, *work 1 hdc into first st, then work 2 hdc in next st* continue around, sl st into first hdc (18)

Round 4: ch1, *work 1 hdc each into next two st, 2 hdc in third st* continue around, sl st into first HDC (24)

Round 5: ch1, work 1 hdc into each st, sl st into first hdc (24)

Continue round 5 until desired length is reached

When you reach the correct length, work the final round as follows:

Final round: ch1, work these stitches into one st each: *1 sc, 1 hdc, 1 dc, 4 tc, 1 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc, 2 sl st* Repeat once more, sl st into first sc to join round

Break yarn and weave in ends.

I decided to add a button to mine, but you may have your own creative ideas for sealing the enclosure.

If you do decide to add a button as I did, I placed my button on one flap in the center of the 4 tc. As I sewed it on, I bunched the two tc on either side close to the button and inserted the needle straight through the yarn strands to hold it on.

Once you attach the button, it should slide right into the middle 2 tc of the opposite flap!

Tada! Finished!

If you make anything using my patterns, please don’t hesitate to post a comment or contact me with pictures. I would love to see others enjoying my patterns! 🙂

Pattern: Seeded Boot Cuffs


The first day of winter is coming up! I don’t know about y’all, but I’m super excited about boot season. I have more pairs of boots than any other type of shoe, and I am not ashamed of it. So to celebrate the beginning of cold weather, I wanted to try making a pair of cuffs to spruce up my old boots.

When it comes to basic stitches, I love the seed stitch. It has a fun texture, and it’s simple so I can watch TV while I knit. This pattern came about solely because I wanted my cuffs to have the seed stitch. I couldn’t find anything like it on Ravelry so this is my attempt to write a pattern.

This is actually my first pattern so if it’s hard to read or you find any errors, please let me know in the comments!



Measuring tape
Size 8 circular needles (36″ for magic loop)
Around 120 yards or 66 grams of worsted weight yarn (I used Red Heart)
Stitch markers
Buttons of your choice
A sewing needle
Thread that matches your yarn
Tapestry needles for weaving in ends


  • CO – cast on
  • st – stitch
  • k – knit
  • p – purl


Measure the largest area of your calf or your recipients calf, if it’s a gift.
Round to the nearest inch.
Subtract 4 inches from the measurement and cast on the required stitches based on the table below.

9″ – CO 52
10″ – CO 58
11″ – CO 64
12″ – CO 70

If you need a smaller or larger size, 6 stitches will equal about 1″ so add or subtract as necessary.


CO required amount of st

Join for knitting in the round and place stitch marker, if necessary

K2, P2 rib for 1″

***K1, P1 across row
P1, K1 across row

*Repeat from *** until desired length is reached

K2, P2 rib for 1″

Bind off

Weave in ends

Attach buttons in your preferred method

And that’s all there is to it!



I loved how mine came out, but I’m gifting them to my mother-in-law for Christmas. I’ve been counting calories the past few months, and I’ve lost so much weight that they don’t fit me anymore! I can just whip myself up another pair later anyway.

At any rate, I hope that y’all enjoy the pattern. If you make your own pair, feel free to leave a comment with a link to your finished project. I would love to see them!